Editor’s introduction: Passat II has shared a collection of SSB messages sent “home” from their past offshore adventures. Some of these were presented previously. Many thanks to Karina McQueen for curating.
Here’s a chance to travel vicariously through Barrie and Sandra’s updates as they pursued their cruising dreams. More stories from their travels can be found here.
Bahia del Espiritu Santo (Yucatan Peninsula)
Sunday, January 9, 2011, 16:19
Well we finally made it off the dock. Our month at El Cid Marina was very enjoyable. It is a great facility, especially to meet family and friends from back home.
We did an overnight trip, 80% motoring, 20% sailing, wind on the nose rising from 10 knots to over 20 knots. From El Cid to Puerto Aventuras we stayed as close to the west shore as possible to avoid the knot opposing current. We found that the current was about 1 knot less in depths of 75 to 100 ft. This is only recommended in settled weather and daylight as these depths are very close to the reefs. After Puerto Aventuras the current diminishes and even is favorable at times. At night we stayed at least 4 nautical miles off the charted coastline.
By dawn the wind was up to 20 knots and the waves and swells were over 5 ft and somewhat confused. A good time to duck into an anchorage.
Bahia del Espiritu Santo is easy to enter and provides three anchorages. We chose the north anchorage, behind the reef and got the needed relief from the seas.
All is well with us and we hope with you.
Wishing you fair winds and calm seas.
Barrie
San Pedro, Belize
Wednesday, January 12, 2011, 18:27
We arrived here yesterday at noon, after a sail / motor sail from Bahia del Espiritu Santos, Mexico. Wind was forward of the beam, at 10 to 15 knots, choppy 3 to 5 ft seas on the beam, current opposing at 1 knot most of the way. An OK passage.
As was the case last year, anchoring was a challenge. The depth is only 8 to 9 ft. The sand is packed so hard that, even after backing down until the boat came up sharply, I swam down and found the anchor tip was the only thing in the sand. I set the anchor up on its nose by hand, returned to the boat, then backed down again. Now the tip and part of one fluke was in. I tried to move the anchor by hand, but it was stuck fast. I returned to the boat and backed down again. The anchor went slightly deeper. I decided enough was enough, added a 20 lb kellet to the 10 to 1 scope all chain rode and called it a day. Passat did not move an inch overnight, nor today.
Sandra stayed on board to anchor watch. I went in alone, for the first time ever, as Captain, to sign us in. It turns out Belize Immigration needs to see all persons (to compare them with their passport picture) and have them sign an arrival document. I explained the trouble with the anchoring and advised that Sandra was on anchor watch. They said she would have to come in. I advised that it would take an hour for me to return to the boat and get back. They would have been closed for the day. I offered to return the next morning. This was not an option. The officer then gave me the paperwork to fill out for both of us. I filled out Sandra’s and signed as “Captain”. She accepted it. At customs they like to inspect all boats. Fine with me. She asked about my dinghy. When she found out it was a small inflatable and looked at my wet clothes (it was very choppy in the anchorage) she waived the inspection. It was one of the shortest and easiest clearances to date. The total cost for a 30 day visa and 30 day cruising permit was $20 US. A 30 day extension would be another $20 US, but you have to return on or before the end of the first 30 days.
Our SSB/HAM radio transmissions have been very weak so I spent the day cleaning and tightening connections. Also, I found that the AT 130 Tuner was not working. I rewired one of the tuner connections and turned off the automatic tuning feature. As a result I was able to talk to a Ham Net Controller in Barrie, Ontario, Canada. It sure feels good when you get a positive result!
Wishing you fair winds and calm seas.
Barrie
Sandra relaxing while on anchor watch in San Pedro, Belize. Photo courtesy of Lesley Quin
Colson Cays, Belize
Monday, January 24, 2011, 16:17
Typical day:
Wake up at 07:00. Mocha coffees for everyone except Cathy, she prefers hot chocolate. Checked into the Waterway and Continental Ham Nets.
Set the solar panels up to face the sun, then read a chapter or two of the current book.
When the temperature reaches the high 70s Fahrenheit, load up the dinghy with snorkeling gear and head to the forest of coral heads nearby. Marvel at the great variety of fish life and avoid the dozens of stinging jellyfish. Take hundreds of pictures.
Move to explore the sand bar at the north end of the cays. Boring. Move to explore the three underwater sink holes nearby. Interesting for about two minutes, but no sign of marine life. Tour the nearby lagoon. Startle some Pelicans. Find a pile of Conch Shells. Take pictures, but leave for the next explorers.
Return to the boat. Shower, serve rum drinks and snacks. Reset the solar panels. The ladies play scrabble. The men read and siesta. (Also, edit the pictures taken.)
The sun sets at 17:30. Move inside to prepare dinner and play cards (Hearts).
Yawns at 21:00. Bed at 21:30.
Life is good.
Wishing you fair winds and calm seas.
Barrie, Sandra and guests Mike & Cathy.
Roatan, Honduras
Friday, February 4, 2011, 19:06
We signed out of Belize on February 2nd, paying only a $15 Belize (rate fixed at $2 Belize for each US $) for the paperwork. At sign-in we paid about $20 US total. We were really lucky. Belize is implementing some new fees that will make it the most expensive country we have visited on a boat. They now charge an additional $5 to $10 Belize per day, per person (minimum $50 Belize) and other fees based on your registered tonnage. In comparison, Mexico charges a fairly nominal amount to import your boat for 10 years. This is supposed to allow you to import parts for your boat without import duties (easier said than done as we found out). The fees for cruising permits (zarpe) and 90 day visas are reasonable. Honduras is $3 US per person for each 30 days, up to 90 days. The United States is $19 US for a one year cruising permit. Guatemala is under $1 US per day for a one year boat import permit and 90 day tourist visas, including our agents fees.
I predict that Mexico, Guatemala and Honduras will be the big winners. Mexico and Guatemala have equal or better Mayan ruins and Honduras has great cruising and comparable diving and snorkeling.
Our trip from Belize to Honduras was all “uphill” against wind and current. This made the normally 19 hour sail last 29 hours. In addition, the waves were high enough to get everything covered in salt water. Sigh. This has been our year to have long and wet trips. At the end of this segment I was ready to exchange the boat for a pair of first class airline tickets home. This feeling passed as we enjoyed our rum and cokes after putting the boat to bed in this beautiful anchorage.
Wishing you fair winds and calm seas.
Barrie & Sandra
Fantasy Island, Roatan, Honduras
Wednesday, February 16, 2011, 07:44
I woke up suddenly at dawn, deafened by a sound like a million hornets on steroids, blinded by a thick fog, overwhelmed by a sweet smell and taste. My heart was pounding, sweat was beading. Fight or flight? A nightmare? No. Our wake up call was a resort employee operating an insecticide fogger on the dock. Something the Dock Master missed in his orientation.
We now are trained to close up the boat at the slightest hint of a hornet sound. Sandra is so well attuned she woke up in the middle of last night…. It was only our fan making its usual hum.
Life at the dock can be as exciting as at sea.
In spite of 2.5 days of rain (and the Fogger) we have been enjoying our stay in Roatan. We have toured the island by car, visited with our friends Alex and Carol, done some snorkeling and attended a cruisers valentine dinner and dance.
Life is good.
Wishing you fair winds and calm seas.
Barrie
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